Відео

That’s a horrible idea now you can scam people when selling the truck used.

The 4runner should have gone Jeep style and the Prado stay a medium hard body SUV

Not only the various hydraulic systems, but the new breed to lighter rings don't like heavy oil at all. The rings need to scrape the oil off the cylinder walls and control how much is remaining. Too heavy a grade will leave too much behind to burn, causing a lean condition.

I have reached a compromise at 5000 miles. Use Castrol semi synthetic 5 30 on 2004 silverado. It used to be 3000 mile oil changes until this one time that I went 6,000 miles. Oil looked like it could have gone a couple of thousand more miles. So It really does depend how fast or slow you drive and if you tow. Be your own "oil monitor" and change it as necessary. I drive extra slow so makes sense changing it at 5000 miles.

I will never own a vehicle that don't have a way to check oil. There are people out there that use dipsticks!!

There are a couple of guys on youtube getting large followings at the moment trashing tacomas. I seriously think they are just making junk up.

Toyota Grand Highlander and Lexus version are produced at the plant in my town in southern Indiana. There are a bunch just sitting in the lots at the plant that can not be sold right now and production has stopped until a fix can be found.

On the list charger station. You can filter out the AC chargers. Even filter out the slow 50kw stations.

The Engineer failed to mention . The primary cause of oil sheering out of grade is fuel dilution. What causes that? We've talked about it before, low tension piston rings and high pressure direct injection. Most gasoline truck moved from 5-6 quart sumps, to 7-8 quart sumps. The reason for this is that, the OEMs know the oil will shear out of grade, the more oil in the pan, the better chance they have to make to to 7500 miles. Which BTW is all you'll get out of most modren oil life monitors. Not 10k.

Sweet. Sorry for your loss. What year of H1 axles?

If you cut their recommended oil change interval in half, over the life of the vehicle what are you saving? Maybe a $1000? Doesn't seem too expensive long term for the potential problems you might avoid.

Do you drive regular or severe duty? Might want to check your owners manual before you decide on your oil change intervals.

I'm really enjoying my popcorn while reading these comments...

Most humans do poorly with probability statistics and they also often fail to contemplate potential outcomes and the severity of such should a given event occur. This makes them panic about recalls.

Awesome follow up.

Well RAM is under a European group. No dip sticks has been used in BMWs, Audis for years..I think they personally don't want you working on ya own vehicles. If someone resets the digital gauge than you Fk'ed

It’s $50 for an oil change. Why push it to the max with a 10k change?? These are max intervals that you see in the owners manual. I don’t understood the mindset of people spending 50K plus on a vehicle and then try to save a nickel by maxing out your oil interval.

Jill, Thank you for taking one in the butt for us. Ive had a host of Toyotas over the years and ALL of the seats sucked .'99 ,'05,'10 Camrys. '02,'07 Tundras. Been driving Ridgelines since '09. Subarus since ' 16 for the wife. But I'm the one with the sensitive keyster. Please do a Ridgeline test for long distance comfort.

Any issues with main seal leaks that are old and possibly getting seal integrity help from the carbon buildup?

CAFE requirements are regulated by the NHTSA, not the EPA.

Penzoil and castrol. Also amzoil.

I just don't understand why they couldn't have put both.

I noticed 2 year old lariats are about half the current price.

Literally almost every top of the line vehicle nowadays comes w cooled seats

Valvoline.

I use Amsoil signature series in my AT4 6.2 and change it every 12K. I now have 97K miles and she sounds new still with no power lose and I average 19mpg in the city. I also have a oil catch can and I’ll bet my salary that my engine is cleaner than someone that waste money and charges their oil every 3k miles

The dude in the back... What's he doing - playing solitaire?

It's not just the PCV system. EGR has a lot to do with carbon build up.

Lighter vehicles, specialty tires, reducing friction and parasitic drag, tighter bearing clearances, diamond coatings and surfaces finishes technologies... and fuel mileage is exactly the same as it's always been. Got it.

Great content. Much appreciated.

Instead of dropping cylinders [which just seems dumb to me], I'd much rather entertain a modern design variable stroke engine if I have to get fancy reaching for mileage. I wonder: could an inline 5 find a future or is that too much mass for the complexity of a variable stroke arrangement? Vehicle weights the last decade plus seem stupidly high, given the amount of plastic used, making most scratch their heads as to how that came to be. The EPA has us doing 3 out of 4 things wrong it seems... damn near need a degree just make a competent vehicle purchase these days. I am on the verge of asking sales staff things like bearing clearance, ring thickness etc. And speaking of rings, the newer low tension designs do not forgive pressing past 5k miles between changes on a host of engines. Most suburban driving is short tripping, which is truly severe duty given oil rarely gets up to temp and rings can get fouled by that. Great question on shelf life. I had a motorcycle engine suffer a foaming incident years ago - about 90 miles from anything civilized in any direction. Limped out successfully at low rpm's... a very sketchy day. That silicon additive is rather important, especially if you wind out the motor - it needs to be in suspension.

So a thicker oil that is in good condition can cause malfunction. How about thin oils with 8000 miles between changes. And pint size filters with filter more than gallon sized filters? When you are a mechanic or machine shop that regularly tears down engines. You cam tell how often and what oils were used during the engines life span. The proof is in the sludge left behind.

I do a lot of towing my boat 🚢 every 3,000 miles for me 😮

How about 3,333 Mile oil change interval. Also very easy to remember no matter where you are. This is what I’m doing until I do oil analysis with restore and protect on my 2024 Camry hybrid. Motor on and off can be severe use. So I will see how it works after I’m done with break in …

My dad was a mechanical aerospace engineer in the early days of the space program- he always drove into me that Valvoline was the choice for all gear oils, but no more. They falsified their ATF testing and as such is banned in California. I have an issue with their GL4 spec gear oil that showed up immediately- over 100+ postings from others on this as well..... immediately drained it, flushed the tranny and went with another GL4 spec'd oil and the issue was immediately gone. Called Valvoline customer support, just to advise them what had happened- I did not expect anything more- the 20 something "lady" told me it "it couldn't be their oil" and actually laughed on the phone. Never again will I use any Valvoline product.

Yamalube Ring-Free Plus. U S E I T .....................

I got this car in January 2024, unfortunately the remote start(with the key) is not working and the dealer does not have any idea on how to fix it, they escalated the case to GM factory, but I am still waiting for news, do you have any recommendations?

I have used Valvoline full synthetic on my 06 explorer since new. Switched to full synthetic high mileage at 100,000. Now at 235,000, all original and runs like a top. I change my oil every 15,000 to 20,000 miles. I would not do this on a turbo or direct injection motor.

Every automaker is going to their share of issues. No automaker is perfect.

Carbon on pistons/combustion chambers verses intake valves, as per your guest, are two separate issues, largely unrelated. Restore and Protect can help minimize the valve buildup some, but port injection is still a very good way to help as well - that is pretty much what the Valvoline engineer said.

Change your oil per the manufacturer recommendation. It's not the 1970s anymore. Oil easily survives 10k miles.

Land cruiser, looks like the FJ grew up

Cooled seats should be standard on a vehicle like this. 😂 See ZR2. More importantly is the lack of rear seat ventilation. The rest of the World gets them, why not the US?

I just got the 2024 limited TRD, I don’t have the digital mirror I guess I am not going to need it because I am planning to add the decked drawer system and the topper

I respectfully disagree with the Valvoline Engineer’s assertion that Valvoline (a company now owned by a foreign Middle-East Company) is the only oil company with engine testing facilities within their company. Amsoil, Inc (an American Company) has had motor-testing facilities with equipped with dynos in their corporate headquarters in Superior, Wisconsin, in which they conduct tests with their various “100% Synthetic” Oils and other such Lubricants. According to Rafe Britton (a former Lubrication Engineer, who has a number of UA-cam Videos under his channel, Lubrication Explained), he stated that in order for an oil company to describe its oil as 100% Synthetic, it must be exclusively composed of PAOs and Esters (without any petroleum oil). Amsoil is one of a few companies around the world that produce 100% Synthetic Lubricants. Most oil companies that produce a “Full Synthetic Oil” incorporates a high level of hydrocracked petroleum in the base oil. Amsoil was the first oil company to produce a synthetic oil that was API Certified in 1972; they also were the first company to produce a Synthetic Diesel Oil, Synthetic ATF, Synthetic Gear Oil, Synthetic Racing Oil, Synthetic Marine Oil, etc (all 100% Synthetic). An advantage of 100% Synthetic Oil is that they are less likely to contain any oxygen particles attached to their backbone, which plagues ordinary petroleum and hydrocracked petroleum products. Petroleum lubricants containing oxygen has a tendency to oxidize faster, resulting in the eventual sludge formation in comparison to 100% Synthetic lubricants. Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), where all Amsoil Dealers are not employees of Amsoil, Inc., but are considered independent contractors. If I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. If any consumers wish to buy Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved). If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks!!

I guess it’s all about how comfortable you are with oil change intervals…..you’re not going to any harm to your engine by changing your oil sooner rather than later…..if you sleep better at 5k intervals then fine….I’m staying with 5k intervals….I’m sure Valvoline will appreciate the business…

Tim good show for some reason. I am an oil geek myself. I love to research motor oil recently last week. I switched my brands that I’ve used for 30 years to Valvoline protect and restore. I’m testing it in my Ford 302 in my research includes lake Speed Junior, which also did a segment on this oil, also with a guy from Valvoline They also run it on a dino doing horsepower test different weights things of that nature. It’s really what made me switch again as Jason said switching weights maybe from a 5:20 to a 530 might not hurt but you don’t wanna go to far because today’s modern rings are much thinner and have less tension and heavier oil needs more tension on the piston rings, so don’t blow by most people think heavier oil better so won’t get by. Not true as far as my research shows again just my personal thoughts everybody has a different thought.

So excluding mall crawlers, anyone that uses their truck as a truck should run a higher viscosity. (at 4-7 min) For example, coyote mustang use 5-30, but PP & Boss use 5-50.

We Always change our oil / filter every 4-5K miles from the time it’s new until we sell it (250K - 300K miles) with High Mileage full synthetic. The High Mileage oil has additives to Reduce engine wear.

I was hoping that he might describe in some detail how the Restore and Protect differs from their other oils. Is it basically just a higher level of detergents in the additive package? Also, regarding these long oil change intervals, is the darkening of the oil as it gets older due, at least in part, to the buildup of soot(fine Carbon particles) in the oil? If so, would these very small abrasive particles, that pass through the oil filter, possibly damaging to small highly-loaded bearing surfaces in places like the valve train?